Naples, Italy—where to even begin? The city in the south is not a first stop for touristing Americans. It boasts not the candy colored novelty of the Amalfi Coast, the opulent glean of Lake Como, or ...
The city long seen as a gritty stopover is stepping into the spotlight with a reopened metro line, blockbuster exhibitions, and the kind of food, art and chaos that still feels gloriously unscripted.